A few years ago I went all the way to South Africa, to find myself barefoot in the water, on the crushed shells of Jeffryes Bay, my eyes fixed on the rolling perfection of Supertubes.
I body-boarded in Mexico and Vietnam, and each time I found a new piece of information. I’ve never been in search of enlightenment, just information. For my brain-muscle communication. This actually can bring you to enlightenment eventually, but it’s the fun of the process that attracts me.
So this summer I was lucky and stubborn enough to go to Hawaii. I was in Brenneke Beach in Kauai (that was scary). I tried small shorebreaks at Wailea in Maui. I couldn’t stop looking at the Ocean in Baldwin Beach Park. I spent hours in the water at Walls in Waikiki.
Well what I learned is that good waves come in groups and there’s always someone out there with you.
Between two groups of good waves time is warped, time is different, as it is in travel or narration, and you float and you wait and wait and you get to talk. Maybe someone gives you advice and it works great right from the next wave. Maybe someone tells you a story. And when you get out of the water you’re bruised and you limp just a little.
If that’s not enlightenment to you, then I really don’t know what it is.