Longboard

When I’m in the water with a surf instructor or a kayak guide, after a while they ask if maybe I live by the sea.

No.

It’s to make conversation of course, but also because I look so insanely happy to be in the water (the Ocean is my favourite place in the wold). Then they will ask what I do for a living and I will tell them I work in IT. This puzzles them completely and there are no more questions. I suspect they even feel a bit sorry for me.

But guys, I may live in a place where people can hardly swim at all, but I’m the Roy Batty of surf. I was in Jeffreys Bay and in Hawaii. I was there when my surf superhero paddled solo the Tasman sea. I bodyboarded three Oceans, the water always felt fantastic.

Since my 2013 resolution was to surf more, this summer I devoted part of my Californian trip to longboard surfing (and a bit of bodyboarding).

In my reasonably sized Wednesdays I managed to drink a lot of salt water and probably some tar, to stain my feet horribly, inhale sand that scratched my throat, be tossed around most of the time, have flip flops stolen (in Huntington, for the record), and to ride an unexpected number of waves, standing like the goddess of intermediate learners.

Now let’s talk about your shoulder of Orion. Did you take any photo?

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