Backwash

I may not be a proper surfer, but I know stuff. Jeffreys Bay at Supertubes (so many shells), how foggy Ocean Beach in San Francisco can be in the early afternoon, locals bodyboarding a bit after work in Waikiki, how a 5mm wetsuit feels like.

I know that this is Dave Rastovich surfing Cloudbreak, photographed by Nick Liotta.

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